Housing Your Sugar Glider

Spacing between bars should be less than 1/2 inch. - Photo by Stephen Scheib
Spacing between bars should be less than 1/2 inch. - Photo by Stephen Scheib
Sugar gliders are full of energy and love to run around late at night. Adequate housing is needed to keep these curious critters content.

A good parent provides a good shelter for his or her child. This is no different for a pet. Remember that animals such as sugar gliders are always in a cage. Imagine being in a closet all day and all night, for weeks on end. Taking this into account, proper cage spacing is a must. In the wild, sugar gliders live in trees, hence why they have the patagia (the flap of extra skin attached to their ankles and wrists) to help them glide from tree to tree. A cage should be big, but height is more important than width. Three feet is a safe bet, but bigger is always better. Two feet is a good width to start with as well (Sugar-Gliders). Gliders love to climb, so metal wiring is good for them; just make sure the spacing in the wiring is small enough so your gliding buddy does not take a surprise vacation around your house at night. Gliders can squeeze through half-inch spacing (Sugar-Gliders).

Climbing

Since they are used to climbing, sugar gliders have very sharp nails. These nails allow them to stick like Velcro to the bark of a tree. Without proper care their nails can grow long and very sharp- making a sugar glider without his claws in check something one does not want climbing on bare skin. Provide things for your glider to climb on such as branches and bird perches that they sell in pet stores. Special wheels with sandpaper-like inserts also provide exercise while wearing down the nails gently. Avoid wheels with ladder-like bars as sugar gliders are very prone to injury with these due to the way they run, or leap rather, while in the wheel. Toys are a must with gliders, whether they are in pairs or gliding solo. Gliders become bored easily, so renovate their home from time to time.

Bedding

Sugar gliders, particularly males, do produce an odor. The odor resembles slightly rotted fruit. Most caged pets’ odor can be covered by bedding such as aspen, pine, or cedar (rarely pine or cedar as these have been known to cause respiratory issues in most small animals). Sugar gliders have sensitive respiratory systems; therefore any woodchip-based bedding should be avoided. These shavings contain oils that irritate the fuzzy critter. Gliders groom themselves consistently and any oils on their hands will make it to their noses and mouths. This is not good for them.

Line a glider’s cage with newspaper and use an alternative type of bedding, if any. Recycled newspaper bedding such as Carefresh is recommended by many veterinarians. However, this type of bedding does not do as good a job controlling odor. Constant cage cleaning is needed. Even after changing the bedding in the cage, an odor might still be present. Male gliders have sweat glands on their bellies and heads (see What is a Sugar Glider for more information). They mark their scent as they run around their cage, so the bars of the cage are actually the culprit. Do not use any specialized cleaners; rather just wipe them down with a wet, warm wash cloth. These cute little guys are very sensitive to chemicals as they touch it with their hands and then touch their mouths, much like a young child.

A Place to Lay a Weary Head

Being marsupials, gliders love to curl up in a nice, dark, warm, and tight space. This reminds them of their mothers’ pouches. Be careful not to give them too much room, however, as they will soil their bed and require daily washing (after all who wants to sit in their own waste)! A small pouch that can fit one or two gliders is adequate. Just make sure you can get them out of it in the case of an emergency or for just plain socialization time. Their beds should be composed of a material that is easily washed and dried as well as free of snags. Remember that gliders have sharp nails that can get caught or become a choking hazard if the snags become big enough.

Nocturnal Needs

Keep your little buddies cage out of direct sunlight and drafty areas. Their gigantic, black eyes that seem to lead into the cosmos cannot handle bright light. It is therefore also advised not to try and make them acclimate to a diurnal (or awake during the day) schedule. This causes more stress on the tiny critters and can lead to illness and death. They need to sleep during the day, bottom line.

Also a good glider guru should know that sugar gliders are little American Idol wannabes. They make all sorts of vocalizations from chirping and humming to screaming and barking. Search through popular video websites like Youtube to view the wide variety of sounds these talented opera stars possess. Due to their delightful songs and the fact that they sing while we sleep, an owner clearly does not want to keep them in the bedroom.

Food and Water

Keep your glider’s food readily available, but do not feed them more than two to three tablespoons a day (Sugar Glider Feeding), otherwise your fluffy friend will become a fat friend. Change the food daily as they may soil it during their nightly adventures. If possible, use a water bottle (preferably made of glass as plastics can contain toxins and puncture easily against a glider’s sharp teeth) for water consumption. Sometimes these finicky fluff balls do not care for a water bottle. If this is the case, try a stainless steel water bowl, but be sure to wash it out and give it a good clean daily.

Happy Home, Gleeful Glider

Do not be afraid to add flair to your gliding pal’s cage. In the long run he will appreciate the myriad of exciting things around his cage. Any change should be done gradually to reduce any immediate stress. These guys are wild, despite their status as a pet. Living in a cage is stressful for them and can be stressful on the owner as well if time and consideration are not given.

Sources:

Sugar-Gliders

Sugar Glider Feeding

Professional Photo of Stephen Scheib, Michelle Pettinella

Stephen Scheib - Stephen thrives on educating others about the world around them. He has worked with vets for years and has taught many subjects.

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